
Ideas for Days Out in the Charente-Maritime
There's plenty to do in this picturesque part of the world. Here are a few
suggestions...
A day at the beach
Choose from up to100 beautiful beaches along the coast and the islands
just off-shore. All boast long stretches of clean, soft sand and as many are
protected under the Conservertoire du Littoral (the society to protect the
coastline), the scenery is unspoilt and quite beautiful. There are beaches to
suit all tastes, from surfers’ paradise to family friendly.
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… or take in the zoo too
If you don’t fancy spending all your day at the beach and you’re near
Royan, then enjoy four hours or so at the Zoo de la Palmyre (www.zoo-palmyre.fr).
Considered one of the best zoos in Europe, it’s set in 14 hectares of pine
forest that’s part of the forêt de la Courbe. See more than 1,600 types of
animal from all five continents including polar bears and snow leopard to
Siberian tigers, elephants, monkeys and apes. Les Mathes; tel 08 92 68 18 48.
Fabulous La Rochelle
Definitely one of France’s loveliest coastal towns with a historic port
that’s beautifully preserved. Walk through the Gothic gateway, Porte de la
Grosse Horloge, and explore the maze of pedestrianised streets – don’t miss the
market. The aquarium here is one of Europe’s best with more than 10,000 sea
creatures. There is also the old port to explore, with its historic towers, plus
take a boat trip out into the harbour and visit one or more of the many
excellent and unusual museums. There are plenty of places to eat, along the
lively seafront or in the atmospheric streets.
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Roam around L’île de Ré
Known as the French Hamptons, this is where the French glitterati spend
their summers. They come for the white, sandy beaches, the villages of white
houses and pastel coloured shutters, with hollyhocks growing in the gardens, and
the getting away from it all feel – cycles are a popular form of transport. The
main town of Saint Martin-de-Ré is a lively bustling place set around a harbour
filled with brightly coloured boats and the island also has two of the region’s
most beautiful villages. Children can ride on the island’s famous 'donkeys in
pants'.
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French town charm & a trip to a lighthouse
The seaside town of Royan is a mix of beautiful Belle Époque mansions
and contrasting modernist architecture (it was bombed by the Allies during WWII
and then rebuilt). The seafood market in a shell-shaped market is fantastic,
plus there’s a lovely port to wander round, and walks that take you along the
coast. Take a boat out to Le Phare de Cordouan, one of France’s oldest
lighthouses and a breath-taking view from the top.
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Côte Sauvage
The wildest part of the Atlantic coast boasts long sandy beaches and
crashing waves backed by towering forests of pine. Within in the interior is the
la forêt de la Coubre, a huge pine and green oak forest that was first planted
in the 19th century to stop erosion in the sea. Today it’s protected and a
lovely place to go walking, cycling or even horse-riding. But you can also get a
sense of its beauty by going for a scenic drive. Have a meal at La Tremblade, a
picturesque village where oyster farming and mussels are a major industry.
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The scent of mimosa and a sea breeze
Connected to the mainland by a bridge, L’île d’Oléron is France’s
largest island after Corsica and boasts hugely varied landscape, from pine
forests and sand dunes to marshland and salt beds, soaring cliffs and long,
sandy beaches. In the summer months the scents of mimosa and oleander are
carried on the sea breeze, wafting over the many holidaymakers (the island is a
French favourite). Take a boat trip from the island around Fort Boyard, owned by
the television channel France 2, so not open to the pubic, but it’s still worth
the trip.
Oysters & old city walls
Much of the Atlantic coast around here is devoted to oysters, but those
from Marennes are particularly prized. Tour the area on foot, cycle, bus or
boat, seeing the oysters beds and the farmers at work before tucking into a
dozen or so of these delicious shellfish at one of the many restaurants (tourist
office: Place Chasseloup-Laubat; tel 05 46 85 04 36. Later head to Brouage, once
an important harbour town. Today it has silted up and the town fell into ruin.
It’s an interesting place to visit – you can walk along the two kilometres of
ramparts and see inside the underground waterways that linked the main square
with the sea.
Elegant boulevards, boats & Napoleon
Start your day in Rochefort, a 17th century ‘new town’ built with wide
boulevards on an octagonal grid pattern so the sea breeze could sweep through
the town. Stop off at La Corderie Royale (www.corderie-royale.com),
once the royal ropeworks and now an excellent museum. Then head to the nearby
dockyard where the Hermoine, an 18th century frigate, is being reconstructed.
From here, explore the nearby Fouras peninsula with its beautiful beaches,
interesting walks and prolific wildlife. If you have the time visit the Musée
Napoléon (Rue Napoléon, tel 05 46 84 66 40) on L’île-d'Aix, a small
croissant-shaped island that can be walked around in just two hours. The museum
is in the house where Napoleon I stayed before handing himself over to the
British. His room remains just as it was then.
Roman ruins & Romanesque splendour
Established by the Romans, Saintes is a pretty market town with a
number of excellent Roman ruins including the L’Arc of Germanicus that was
originally built in 19AD and Les Arènas, the remains of an amphitheatre
originally constructed in 40AD and once holding 15,000 spectators. From here you
can take a cruise down the Charente river on a gabere, a traditional
flat-bottomed boat. Then take in two nearby UNESCO world heritage monuments – in
Saintes the 12th century Abbaye aux Dames and in Aulnay-de-Saintonge, the Church
of Saint Pierre d’Aulnay, one of the most magnificent Romanesque churches in
France with breath-taking sculptures including the four horsemen of the
Apocalypse and figures from daily life and the zodiac. When driving through this
parts, enjoy the scenery of fields, vineyards and villages with houses made of
local white limestone that glow in the light. Saintes tourist office: 62
cours National, Saintes; tel: 05 46 74 23 82
Château crazy!
If you love noseying around a château, then here are three to choose
from:
Château de Dampierre: magnificent 16th century chateau in Dampierre-sur-Boutonne
is set on an island in the middle of the Boutonne river. Elegant architecture
and award-winning gardens including a labyrinth maze.
www.chateau-de-dampierre.fr
While you’re here stop by La Maison du Baudet du Poitou to see the Poitou donkey
- Le Baudet de Poitou. This shaggy donkey is thought to have existed since Roman
times but is now an endangered species. La Tillauderie, Dampierre-
sur-Boutonne; tel 05 46 24 07 72
Château de la Roche-Courbon: known as the Castle of the Sleeping Beauty after
being found by French writer Pierre Loti abandoned and overgrown. In Saint-Porchaire,
today you can take a guided tour of the ornately decorated interior, and see the
award-winning formal French-style gardens. For children, there is an area of
old-fashioned games such as ‘Indian Top’.
www.t3a.com/larochecourbon
Château de Crazannes: a 14th century château built on the site of an 11th
century fortress – you can still see the chapel and castle keep – and whose
illustrious guests have included the Black Prince and King François I of France.
As well as the fairytale turrets and elaborately carved entrance, inside it is
luxuriously decorated and furnished.
www.crazannes.com
Abbey of Saint Savin then follow the river to a most beautiful village
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this handsome abbey was founded in the
time of Charlemagne (747-814), but rebuilt many times over the following
centuries. Today it is most famous for its well-reserved murals that date from
the 11th century, and which illustrate stories from the bible including the
Temptation of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden, the flood and Noah. Outside
are tranquil gardens as well as a museum on Romanesque art history featuring
interesting multi-media exhibits.
The abbey is on the Gartempe river and the surrounding scenery is very
beautiful. Take the road that follows the river to the village of Angles-sue-l’Anglin
(Tourist office: La Place; tel 05 49 48 86 87) which is offcially designated one
of the region’s most beautiful villages. Stop for lunch, then wander the winding
streets and take in the architecture that dates back to medieval times. You can
visit the château that dominates the town see the remainders of two towers, the
donjon and two chapels. The village is also known for its fine embroidery - see
the tourist office for details. Recently opened in the Roc Aux Sorciers or
‘Witches Rock’, are replicas of prehistoric carvings that date from 14 000 years
ago, found here in the 1950s but closed to the public to keep them safe.
This article was first published on Discover
Poitou-Charentes the complete holiday and leisure guide to the Poitou-Charentes
region. For more information visit :
www.discover-poitou-charentes.com/what-to-see.htm